February 23, 2024


Fashion come on you

The Designers Bringing a Female Gaze to Paris Men’s Fashion Week

PARIS — As eyes change to Paris for its hectic 6-day timetable of 84 events, WWD spotlights a few designers turning a woman gaze on menswear and speaking to a spectrum of consumers whose only label is the style they want to challenge.

Feng Chen Wang

For Chinese designer Feng Chen Wang, displaying successively in New York, London, Shanghai and now Paris is par for the class for her as a world wide citizen.

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“I’ve been touring everywhere you go but I have been dwelling in a distinct town as nicely. [There are] a lot of folks like me, [within] our shopper base and local community. We are from different backgrounds, we connect with various cultures. Factors we do and factors we place with each other are a further way of [expressing] who we are as a young generation,” she reported on a contact from Shanghai.

Also congruent with her era is the gender-irrelevant tactic of her get the job done, which takes its cues from conventional menswear layered with features drawn from her Chinese heritage and a knack for deconstruction.

“At the commencing, I targeted on menswear, but [being a] woman designer [in that segment] brought me a great deal of woman prospects. So now, I really feel that when I reference women’s clothes in fit or even with a skirt or gown, I’m guaranteed our individuals will not just be female as [this sense of] independence is part of the model.

The existing knowledge of men’s and womenswear has “already turn out to be previous university and their definition for now as nicely as the future is going to be modified,” she continued.

A look from Feng Chen Wang’s made-to-measure designs shown in the metaverse. - Credit: Courtesy of Feng Chen Wang

A glance from Feng Chen Wang’s made-to-evaluate styles shown in the metaverse. – Credit score: Courtesy of Feng Chen Wang

Courtesy of Feng Chen Wang

Sizzling off the increase in exposure from the Beijing Winter Olympics, where she created outfits worn by her flag-bearing compatriots, making her mark in Paris with a presentation on June 26 felt like a milestone and a springboard to the next degree.

When her key marketplace remains broadly Asia, in certain China and Japan, this to start with participation marks the acceleration of her company in Europe and North The us.

Feng Chen Wang will also be premiering created-to-measure designs. But do not take into account this purely an workout in luxurious — it’s also about currently being smart and more sustainable as a company.

That’s why her initial measures in the metaverse on June 19, as component of Shanghai Trend Week’s electronic showcase, with entirely virtual seems to be.

“Haute couture houses make anything bodily right before persons purchase, but [for a business our size] this is a sustainable route to go toward this business model in a modern-day, interesting and youthful way,” she ongoing.

Provided her knack for collaborations, which has viewed her variety ongoing partnerships with mainstream makes Levi’s, Converse, Nike, Ugg but also motor vehicle-maker Piaggio, she is also eyeing new fields.

“I do not see myself as a vogue designer but as a imaginative director,” she said, hinting at much more lifestyle. “I truly feel like today’s technology doesn’t just aim on apparel but also on a way of life, which include what we take in, drink and how we vacation.” — Lily Templeton

Jeanne Friot

When Paris-based designer Jeanne Friot claims she wants to gown all people, she indicates it.

“If I dressed my grandmother, I’d be thrilled,” suggests this 28-yr aged graduate of École Duperré and IFM who expended two decades at Balenciaga just before striking out on her individual in 2020.

Based in sustainable accelerator hub La Caserne, Friot styles “clothes to make you experience strong,” making use of deadstock or recycled resources, with several other concerns than making the wearer sense — and look — fantastic.

“My do the job is not about me making a assortment that I use to persons. It speaks of the specific right before fashion,” she claimed, noting that even the genderless label feels ill-fitting given her view of gender as a spectrum.

For this reason her description of the Jeanne Friot shopper as “anyone, an individual who is urban and falls in like with the way we cut and construct dresses,” in keeping with her look at that clothes should be about “an power and a temperament.”

A look from Jeanne Friot’s spring 2023 collection. - Credit: Courtesy of Jeanne Friot

A appear from Jeanne Friot’s spring 2023 selection. – Credit history: Courtesy of Jeanne Friot

Courtesy of Jeanne Friot

Hope lashings of Swarovski crystals, embroideries and eye-catching feathered denim carried above from earlier seasons in her spring 2023 assortment, unveiled at 3:30 p.m. on June 22 on the FHCM’s digital platform, forward of a 5 to 8 p.m. actual physical presentation at the Palais de Tokyo.

Nevertheless carrying out absent with gender matches with the moments and her generation, there is one particular spot she thinks it is even now essential — pointing out she is a female designer.

“When you start off to depend, you notice [how few prominent ones] there are,” both in menswear and womenswear, she stated, noting that even residences famously started by females ended up usually led by men in the latest periods.

“The gender of the designer continue to issues and it’s component of my [mission and values] to put an conclusion to that,” she explained. — L.T.


Mowalola Ogunlesi, the Nigerian-born London-primarily based designer, who right until not too long ago was the design director of the Yeezy Hole line, will current her spring 2023 collection in Paris off-routine for the very first time on June 25.

Recognized for voicing her guidance for Black society and championing the “progressive, androgynous” Y2K aesthetic, Ogunlesi attended London’s Central Saint Martins and made her London Manner 7 days debut with Lulu Kennedy’s emerging help platform Fashion East in 2019.

She acquired the public’s notice just after Naomi Campbell was noticed sporting a Mowalola gown with a bullet wound structure, which in accordance to the designer was meant to express a perception of being a going for walks focus on.

Although doing work with Ye on the Yeezy Hole line, she has dressed some of the greatest celebs like Drake, Kim Kardashian, Dua Lipa, Lil Nas X and Solange Knowles, and has crafted a sizable on the internet following, advertising symbol T-shirts for 80 lbs ., tote baggage for 200 lbs and miniskirts for 300 kilos by means of her have direct-to-purchaser channel.

For her initial selection immediately after heading solo, titled “Burglar Dress in,” Ogunlesi will debut a collaboration with a big sportswear brand.

FOR Much more ON Style FROM WWD.COM, SEE: 

JW Anderson Men’s Spring 2023

Youngsters of the Discordance Men’s Spring 2023

Beyoncé Debuts ‘Break My Soul’ in Alaïa Jumpsuit

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