Jean Paul Gaultier is liable for so numerous popular vogue traits and style and design motifs that it can be tough to keep in mind them all. The good news is, Olivier Rousteing’s 1-off haute couture selection for the French household, shown in Paris on Wednesday, serves as a daring reminder of every 1 of them.
Rousteing follows designers Chitose Abe and Glenn Martens in creating a just one-off couture assortment for Gaultier, encouraged by the retired designer’s legacy. And if he started his style process for this selection by mind-dumping just about every one issue the identify “Jean Paul Gaultier” brought up, he failed to go away out a one aspect from that list. That stated, the Balmain imaginative director put his very own spin on people codes.
For occasion, Gaultier’s popular sailor stripes are patch-labored with scarf motifs into grungey menswear shirts and jackets, or covered in tattoo models on pores and skin-tight sheer tops. (This is component of a men’s all set-to-don side task that launched the couture vary.) There are numerous iterations of the brand’s conical bra form, made famed by Madonna — on bustiers, blazers and robes, which include 1 made of a woven basket product à la caned furnishings. Rousteing actually pushes the envelope when it arrives to elements, which include with sculptural dresses made from what seems to be like shiny silver and gold steel, meant to resemble Gaultier’s famed Le Male and Classique fragrance bottles. Trompe-l’oeil procedures — one more Gaultier favorite — provide even much more whimsy to the runway. Nevertheless, I am not confident who but Rihanna influenced Rousteing to clearly show two leather-clad infant bumps, also featuring the cone boobs.
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Rousteing also incorporates some of his individual recognizable Balmain signatures into the collection, like sculptural, occasion-ready mini attire and robes with exaggerated hip and shoulder silhouettes. But as he told WWD, “This collaboration aided me to realize who I am with out Balmain.”
See every appear from the Olivier Rousteing for Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture collection in the gallery underneath.